There is method to the planning of a Great Ocean Road winter weather guide if you are after a more sedate affair and do not put off by the odd cold wind or rain in favour of a moody sky and waterfalls in full flow. For those interested, a Great Ocean Road winter weather guide basics can offer valuable insights. But should you be looking for easy camping, long days and the kind of conditions that let you swim at the beach, winter will try your patience.
I am Callum Chapman. Any time you have been about Australia in the cooler months you pick up on it: inclement weather is not synonymous with a poor trip. It can mean better whale watching, no crowds, and a fire in the pub when the day is done. Then again, you will have to contend with the Otways fog, tracks that are slick and the type of sideways rain near the Twelve Apostles that has you questioning your life choices.
For those weighing up whether the Great Ocean Road in winter is in keeping with their budget and tolerance for cold fingers, this is the guide. I go over who it is for and who should think twice, how to put together a sensible route from Melbourne via Apollo Bay, the Great Otway and Port Campbell National Parks, and the pitfalls one might not see coming.
The Basics
Planners, photographers and walkers will find a winter-focused guide has merit, as will any whale-watcher in need of some elbow room. Not so much if your idea of a good time is a warm beach stop and a spontaneous picnic come the golden hour.
One has to understand the basics because “a bit cooler” does not cover it. Between the shorter daylight and the regular rainfall on a windy coast, there is fog and all of it will dictate your clothing, your driving times and where you are most comfortable putting up for the night.
Who it is for
An independent road tripper, a couple or family prepared to make their plans around a café, a short walk or a wildlife spot rather than the beach will find winter suits them. Those with an appreciation for a landscape in its moodier element, as opposed to postcard calm, too.
Not so much for the first-time camper short on gear or anyone with very young children who do not take kindly to the rain. And for the traveller of the “we’ll wing it” persuasion; on this coast that is not a strategy to be trusted in the cold and you will end up wet and hungry well after dark.
Making the most of it
You have to be willing to make the trade-off. Warmth and longer hours are sacrificed for atmosphere and sightseeing without the pressure. You will also stand a chance of getting accommodation without parting with a kidney.
My view is that winter is preferable for those wanting to experience the place, not just put a tick against it. Time it and the usual haunts are almost tranquil, the road is not like a sardine tin.
Some would say the upsides are the storm and waterfall watching, the wildness of the sea and the greener, wetter drama of the Otways rainforest. At the Twelve Apostles and other sites you will not be jostled. As for a motel room, what is exorbitant in the height of summer becomes reasonable in winter (weekends and school holidays aside) and the car parks are not so clogged.
But you have to put up with the downsides. There is the wind chill, the mud, the reduced visibility and less leeway in your day due to the daylight. A map will tell you a scenic drive is leisurely but factor in the wet roads and a few photo opportunities and it is a day’s work.
People make the mistake of thinking they can run the summer itinerary in a jumper. They can’t. Winter is unforgiving of overconfidence and calls for a slower pace.
As for the conditions
It is cool to cold if not alpine, yet the coastal wind has a way of making it seem nippier than your phone tells you. And the character of the route alters from one town to the next so a Melbourne forecast will not do. A sound way to plan is to have a look at the regional forecasts and make allowances for some rain and some buffer time, instead of after perfect weather which could well be in short supply.
Winter in coastal south-west Victoria runs to type
Daytime will put in 10–14°C in most places, but you can expect it to be nippier in the mornings and at night inland or when the skies are clear. In exposed spots like the cliff tops or Port Campbell National Park, wind and rain will see to it that lookouts feel a few degrees colder.
Then there is the matter of rainfall; it is a regular occurrence, not something to be put out by. The Otways will usually get more of it than the towns on the coast and for good reason, given that Hopetoun and Triplet Falls are the winter’s attraction. Daylight is also at a premium. Make your late departure from Melbourne, dawdle over lunch and you will find yourself in Port Campbell with hardly any afternoon to spare.
The Bureau of Meteorology Victoria forecasts are what one should rely on for the Great Ocean Road.
BOM is the authority to consult before you set off and come morning, as wind, low cloud and showers can alter the coast in a hurry.
Compare May and August on the Great Ocean Road and you may find May a trifle milder if no less unsettled; August has its cold spells but offers top notch whale watching and all the winter scenery. Blue skies are not on offer in either month, such is the way of it.
Do not think of “Great Ocean Road weather” as a monolith.
You might do Apollo Bay, the Otways and the Port Campbell stretch in a day and it would be like three different excursions. It is something to bear in mind for your clothes and where you put down for the night, and it is why a fine morning can become damp and uncooperative once you are along the coast.
Apollo Bay makes a sensible winter base
With its food and services and proximity to the hinterland and the coast. It is a convenient place to put in an hour or two when the weather is nothing to write home about. There is no trouble parking in winter as a rule, though weekends are another matter. For a single overnight stop it is hard to beat to halve the drive from Melbourne and not be stuck in the car in bad weather.
In the Great Otway National Park the season shows its hand.
The rainforest is cooler and more confining, with mist and fern gullies dripping and the waterfalls in full flow. But the tracks and stairs can be slick and a walk you thought would be quick will drag on as people are cautious. Good shoes with some grip are called for at Hopetoun and Triplet Falls; smooth soled trainers are an invitation for mishaps.
Port Campbell and the Twelve Apostles are prime for storm watching
The Southern Ocean making them feel the cold. One envisions a quiet stand at the viewing platform in a smart coat; in practice you are squinting into the wind and holding your beanie on. Your ears will tell you why. But you dress accordingly and it is worth the bother.
| Section | Winter Feel | What Catches People Out | Best For |
| Melbourne To Apollo Bay | Cool, mixed showers, easier services | Underestimating stop time along the coast | Scenic driving, flexible first day |
| Apollo Bay To Great Otway National Park | Cooler, wetter, more fog and rainfall | Slippery walks and slower moving on tracks | Waterfalls, rainforest, short hikes |
| Port Campbell National Park | Windy coastline, exposed lookouts, rough seas | Wind chill and limited shelter at viewing points | Storm watching, cliff scenery, photography |
There is little point in attempting to make winter like summer.
Put in some time with the wildlife and wet forest walks, enjoy the dramatic coast and a warm meal in town. As Callum Chapman would have it, rough weather calls for sights that are better for it, a wiser course than a beach plan you know is going to fall apart by breakfast.
There are few better incentives to put in an appearance on the Great Ocean Road in winter than whale watching
Especially if you make your way past the core of the route to Warrnambool. The Otways will also have more to offer in the way of waterfalls come winter; Hopetoun and Triplet Falls tend to be a sight to behold compared with drier times of year.
Then there is the spectacle of a storm at the Twelve Apostles, as long as one is suitably attired and the conditions warrant it. With white water and dark cloud and a big swell, the coastline has an altogether different air from what the sunny marketing material would have you believe.
Perks of the Low-Season
One is afforded some breathing room in the off season. A town centre or the car park at a lookout is not as much of a shambles as in the height of summer. You will see your share of tour buses and day-trippers but not in such numbers.
The same holds for sections of the Great Ocean Walk which can be quite tranquil in winter, if not any easier for it. Proper preparation is called for given the mud and dampness and to know your own fitness level.
Risks to be mindful of
Most travellers will find the route in winter no problem, but it is not a time for being complacent. One has to contend with the prospect of wet roads, driver fatigue, poor visibility, paths that are slippery and daylight failing before you are where you need to be.
Those with experience are wont to err less on this account. They are up earlier, do not stop on a whim and have the forecast in mind without letting it take over.
A reality check on driving
For a standard vehicle the Great Ocean Road is sealed and unremarkable, yet in winter you may have to put up with surface water and fallen branches, or slower going at the lookouts and in narrow places. It is not a technical drive but it requires concentration since weather and scenery are apt to be a distraction.
You will hear optimistic figures for the drive from Melbourne to the Twelve Apostles; in winter, factor in 6 to 9 hours one way for a proper run of sightseeing. With only a day to spare, pick a section to focus on instead of making a hero of yourself and trying to do it all. A relaxed coastal day in Apollo Bay or the cliffs at Port Campbell are preferable to rushing about.
Some safety tips
- Make sure to consult the BOM before you set out and once more in the morning.
- An early start from Melbourne is wise to get the most from the limited daylight.
- Put on a waterproof shell over your layers, a thick hoodie will not suffice.
- On the Otways walks, give yourself time for the mud and wet steps to slow you down.
- See that you have fuel and provisions for the longer bits ahead of you, foul weather or not.
- And while camping is an option, it is only agreeable if you have the right cold-weather equipment and can stand condensation and the odd midnight trip to the dunny with damp boots. If not, book a room. Do not be tempted to sleep in the car where it is not allowed.
Packing for the occasion
Forget style on this route, the aim is to be warm, dry and functional. A coat that is all show but seeps after ten minutes is for a city laneway, not a cliff face at Port Campbell. Most people underpack the warm stuff and bring “just in case” clothes they will not use. Good gear is worth more than a lot of it.
Essentials
- A hooded waterproof jacket and a mid-layer of fleece or wool.
- Long pants that will dry in short order.
- Walking shoes or boots with some grip.
- For the exposed lookouts a beanie and light gloves.
- Have a change of clothes and socks in the car.
- Offline maps and a power bank for your phone.
- An umbrella in the towns if you like, though it is of little use on the windy coast.
As for what to wear at the lookouts, go with layers you can put on or take off in a hurry. In the course of a day you could be on a damp track in the rainforest then a sea cliff in the wind and in a warm café in Apollo Bay.
Not everyone’s cup of tea
Winter is not per se the ideal time for the Great Ocean Road, just for certain types of traveller. Should you be in the mood for the beach, swimming or an easy outdoor day with the family, the shoulder season makes more sense. Spring and autumn are the sweet spot for many, with milder conditions and better daylight and none of the summer crowds. You get the best of both worlds with fewer weather worries.
Some Travellers Will Do Well To Consider Other Options
Should the wind put a damper on your spirits, give autumn or spring a hard look as shoulder season alternatives. While you can have changeable weather then, for the most part they are more accommodating in terms of daylight, access and a temperate mix of conditions.
For a first-timer on the coastal road, or a casual camper with a family in tow, the shoulder months will be less of an ordeal than the depths of winter. Be realistic about what you can stand to be comfortable with and the pros and cons of a Great Ocean Road winter present themselves.
Itineraries Of A Different Kind
Leave some breathing room; that is what makes for a good winter itinerary. Instead of ticking off every attraction, have one or two must-dos and keep your daily distances and bases to a minimum. I have watched travellers put in too much and show up at the finer viewpoints in no mood for anything with the light flat. Do not make the same mistake. The road is the trip after all.
A Day Or Two
One day calls for a narrow focus. You can put in a day from Melbourne to Apollo Bay and return and get your fill of coast and food. Make it a long day to Port Campbell and the Twelve Apostles if the cliffs are what you are after, but there is little flexibility and you will be behind the wheel for hours.
Two days means an overnight in the vicinity of Apollo Bay or Port Campbell. Then you are not in such a hurry to see the major lookouts and can put in some time at the waterfalls and Otways rainforest.
Three To Four Days
The sensible way to do a winter run of the Great Ocean Road is over three or four days. It is the practical sweet spot. You can break up the route, put in a few miles of the Great Ocean Walk, spend a while in the Port Campbell National Park and be in a position to alter course if the weather sours. There is more to it than the usual rush-through.
As for cost, self-drive types should be making allowance for fuel, meals and any incidentals in the park area. Permits are not a consideration for the main road trip. Accommodation in winter is all over the place price-wise, so book in advance for school holidays and weekends.
Questions That Get Asked
Once you stop dreaming and start to put something together, these are the sort of things come up. Some are quite reasonable, others from a party who has seen fit to pack optimism in lieu of a raincoat.
What is the best month?
You will not find one that suits all. August has its merits for the full winter scenery and whales. May might be milder in places. Most, however, would rather be in a shoulder month than in the heart of winter for their comfort.
How cold does it get?
Expect 10 to 14°C in the daytime for the most part, though wind and rain make it feel worse in exposed areas. Come morning or evening, particularly away from the coast, it is colder still.
Is it possible to sleep in your car?
Do not count on it being permitted. Council rules and campground management will have their say. Rely on official campgrounds or verified local advice and legal accommodation, not on pulling over and leaving it to chance.
How many days to drive it?
Make it two at a bare minimum for an agreeable winter outing. Three or four is preferable if you intend to put in some proper stops at Apollo Bay or Port Campbell and allow for weather and short walks.
Any point to camping in the winter?
Unless you have the right equipment and a taste for it, not really. Put yourself in a pub room or cabin if in any doubt. After a wet day on the track a dry bed is something of a luxury.
In Conclusion
This guide is for you if you want to plan a trip on what the conditions are, not some glossy version of them. Winter is for those who can put on a few layers and drive with sense and take in the wilder side of the coastline and the towns when they are quiet.
If your idea of a break is easy comfort and a long sunny evening on warm sand, this is not for you. No need to feel bad about it. Visit when it chimes with the way you travel, not how you picture yourself in some heroic jacket in a gale.
Going in the winter? Then prepare well and get an early start and plan a little less. You will be ahead of half of them.